Day 8

We were expecting a hideously long drive today - about 7 hours - but in fact it turned out to be only about 4 and a half and through some interesting scenery of rural India and we arrived in Haridwar before 1pm to our spiritual veggie hotel (actually another really nice place with the biggest beds I have ever seen). Alcohol and meat are banned in H but yoga and meditation are definitely in.

Haridwar itself is really pretty but it is seriously busy and has probably been a bit of a low point for at least some of us. Flora, Mia and I were all quite homesick today and so probably not fully appreciating it. Mia, having been so chirpy and tolerant of everything so far, had a meltdown today and just wanted to go home to see her toys, her friends and her pets! And I haven't been well today - no stomach problem but a cold that the girls helpfully brought from England which has lodged itself on my chest.

But back to Haridwar. As we came in to town we saw hundreds upon hundreds of tents. If we thought it was busy today, we should come back at the start of November when a million or so followers of some Hindu holy preacher dude are coming in to town for lectures, prayers and ten thousand or so common marriages will be performed (ie arranged marriages in huge groups). I think perhaps I'll stay at home!!

From the terrace at the back of our hotel we had a fabulous view of the Ganges and the pilgrims coming down to wash themselves on the ghats. I am very happy to report that the only things we saw floating down river were flower garlands and candles and in fact the river looks very clean here - but is an extraordinary greenish colour.

At about 4pm we headed out through the market streets to the temple area to join evening prayers and the aarti; which is when people light candles in little dishes or leaf bowls of petals and float them down river. It was a very lovely and really interesting experience, one we feel lucky to have been a part of, but the whole place is full of visitors - Hindu pilgrims from all over India, all really friendly and interested in the strange pale English family amongst them. This became quite overwhelming for Flora, who isn't keen on a crowd anyway, and Mia who is constantly the focus of attention here, wanted or unwanted. Suffice to say we will now be featuring in holiday snaps all over India and got a taste of what celebrity must feel like!!

Then back to our hotel for (non-alcoholic veggie) dinner, accompanied by a sitar player and holy incantations and then off to our huge beds for a long sleep.